The island of Palm Beach is the exclusive winter home of billionaires and their poorer colleagues, the multi-millionaires. It is, of course, home to what President Trump calls the Winter White House, Mar-a-Lago.
Ten presidents ago, John F. Kennedy also had a Palm Beach home, and this year the country is celebrating 100 years since JFK was born.
All this history means Palm Beach is a fun place visit, especially in the summer, when everyday people can afford luxury accommoations at discounted prices.
While you gawk at mansions and ficus hedges sculpted into works of art, you can also do a little
snorkeling, biking and visiting museums.
The opulence of Palm Beach is easy to spot: The pets are so pampered that there are four dog-watering fountains built around the city including one on Worth Avenue that is a picturesque basin made from Italian ceramic tile.
Of course, you see the flashy new Bentleys and Rolls Royces around town, but year ‘round residents tend to favor a nicely kept older Jaguar as their “beach” car.
You have to look hard for the Publix; in Palm Beach, its only signage is its name subtly carved into the entrance.
If you book a luxury lodging deal in Palm Beach (see details below), you may want to spend much of your time taking advantage of the amenities at your hotel.
But when you’re ready to explore, here are 10 things to see, do and enjoy in Palm Beach in the summer:
1. Biking the Lake Trail
Summer, with its lack of traffic, is a great time to tour on bicycle. You can rent bikes at Palm Beach Bicycle Trail Shop, 223 Sunrise Ave. Palm Beach has one of the best bike trails in Florida, the Lake Trail, which has views of Lake Worth and mansions. You might use bikes to visit other spots listed below. Here’s a Florida Rambler guide to biking the Lake Trail.
2. Tour the Flagler Mansion
If you haven’t visited it, the Flagler Museum is the top attraction. Whitehall, as it is called, is a 55-room mansion built by railroad mogul Henry Flagler, who founded Palm Beach and built The Breakers.
Knowing about Flagler (1830-1913) is essential to understanding not just Palm Beach, but all of Florida. In addition to his importance to history, his personal story is more dramatic than a season of Downton Abbey and his Gilded Age mansion is just as opulent as Downton. Admission is $18 adults; $10 ages 13 to 17; $3 ages 6-12.
When visiting the Flagler Museum, call ahead and find out when docent-led tours are available. We missed the 2 p.m. tour and instead took a very good self-guided audio tour.
3. Window shop on Worth Avenue
Worth Avenue, home to luxury stores such as Hermes, Jimmy Choo, Chanel and Gucci, is a pleasure to stroll, even for those not into shopping. The charm comes from the nine “vias” or pedestrian walkways that lead off the avenue into courtyards filled with fountains, bougainvillea, Old World tile-work and more shops.
The vias are where you will see how architect Addison Mizner captured a bit of Venice here. Via Mizner, by the way, leads to a lovely courtyard with an excellent and affordable Italian restaurant, Pizza Al Fresco. Look carefully in the courtyard and you’ll also spot the grave of Mizner’s pet monkey Johnnie Brown.
While on Worth Avenue, be sure to admire the Living Wall at the corner of Worth Avenue and South County Road. The verdant vertical garden, added a few years ago, cost a quarter-million dollars and contains 10,000 plants.
4. Find peace at historic church
Stop by the Episcopal Church of Bethesda-by-the-Sea, 141 S. County Road, and peak inside the Gothic Revival church. The parish hall has a Tiffany window and behind the buildings are beautiful gardens with a koi pond. Bethesda-by-the-Sea, which some call the most beautiful church in America, was the site of the wedding of President Donald Trump and Melania. (Bill and Hillary were there. And boy does everybody look young.)
5. Lunch at Green’s Pharmacy
If you’re interested in the Kennedy clan, which famously had a winter home at the beach here, you’ll want to have breakfast or lunch at Green’s Pharmacy and Luncheonette, 151 N County Road. It’s an old-fashioned drug store with a soda fountain and lunch counter that hasn’t changed much over the decades. As a youth, JFK and his brothers would stop here and there are many stories of him sneaking away when president for a bite at Green’s. The soda fountain is famous for its chocolate milk shakes, but all the food gets good reviews and it’s probably the most affordable lunch option in the area.
6. Visit the Kennedy’s church
Across the street from Green’s is Edward Catholic Church, 144 N. County Road. The 1926 Spanish Renaissance church is ornately beautiful with an intricate hand-painted ceiling worth admiring. But a big reason visitors stop is because this is where the Kennedy family worshipped.
When I visited on a Sunday between masses, a gentleman asked if it was my first visit. Hearing it was, he said “Follow me” and directed me to sit in a specific pew. In front of me was a small brass plaque that read: “President John F. Kennedy knelt here at Mass.” If you want to sit in that pew, it’s easier to find with a guide, but start looking about three-quarters of the way back on the left side of the right aisle.
7. See the president’s bunker
If you’re interested in JFK, you’ll want to visit Peanut Island, where a secret Cold War-era bomb shelter was built for President Kennedy to use if the end of world threatened while he was in Palm Beach. While Kennedy would have reached the bunker via boat from his Palm Beach estate, you’ll have to leave the island and get a water taxi either at Riviera Beach or Palm Beach Shores. You can easily spend a day on Peanut Island. There’s a great beach with excellent snorkeling in addition to the Palm Beach Maritime Museum, which operates the Kennedy Bunker and the historic U.S. Coast Guard Station.
8. Snorkel or swim
The beaches of Palm Beach are as pretty and well-kept as the rest of the island. The metered parking nearby is not hard to get in the summer. Bring your snorkeling mask because the small rocky breakwaters behind the Breakers Hotel attract schools of fish. (There are public access points to the beaches on either side of the Breakers.)
Another town park, Phipps Ocean Park, 2201 South Ocean Blvd., is a gem because there are outcroppings of limestone in the beach and near the shore, which attract fish and result in good snorkeling. There are restrooms, picnic tables and grills. Because parking is $5 an hour, it’s easy to get a space.
9. Golf at an oceanside course
Just south of Phipps Ocean Park is one of the most scenic public golf courses in Florida – the Palm Beach Par 3 Golf Course at 2345 S Ocean Blvd. (Golf Digest included it in its top-50 “most fun” courses in America.) The 18-hole course occupies some of the most valuable land in Florida – it extends from a fabulous ocean beach on one side to the Intracoastal. Nearly every hole on the breezy course has a view: Take a look at this picture. Its summer rates are a bargain, too. http://golfontheocean.com/
Even if you don’t golf, the two-story clubhouse at the course is a great destination. Pizza Al Fresco operates an Italian restaurant there with ocean views and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. If you want an outdoor table overlooking the ocean — the view and the breeze are divine — be sure to call ahead. (561- 273-4130.)
10. Kayak or sail
One way to stay cool is to get out on the water. West Palm Beach, just across the wide Intracoastal Waterway/Lake Worth, is a good place to book an activity by boat. The Seaside Activity Station is on the waterfront at North Clematis Street and Flagler Drive 561-881-9757. There you can book a catamaran and snorkel trip, rent jet skis or kayaks or book a kayak tour to Peanut Island. Details: http://visitpalmbeach.com/
11. Drive by Mar-A-Lago
Of course, President Trump’s private club is not open to the public, but you can drive by: 1100 S Ocean Blvd. Here it is on Google street view:
Where to stay in Palm Beach
A collection of summer deals is presented at the Palm Beach County tourism site.
Some of the posh hotels offering summer deals are the Brazilian Court, 301 Australian Ave. and the centrally located Chesterfield, 363 Cocoanut Row, a smaller historic boutique hotel. Two hotels south of the town center but on the beach are the the Four Seasons Resort, 2800 South Ocean Blvd. and the Eau Palm Beach Resort & Spa, 100 South Ocean Blvd., Manalapan.
If your budget doesn’t permit a $150+ per night room, you can still stay in Palm Beach close to Worth Avenue and book a room that is less than half the winter rate.
Two historic inns are affordable summer choices:
The Palm Beach Historic Inn, 365 South County Road.
The Bradley Park Hotel, 280 Sunset Ave. (We’ve stayed at the Bradley and had a small but elegant room and a good experience. )
Updated March 2017