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Smallwood Store in Chokoloskee: Everglades icon still owned by original family

 

Smallwood Store photo by Constance Mier

Smallwood Store has been embroiled for several years in a dispute with a developer who has closed the road and limited access to the store. The issue is going to court, with a trial expected in fall 2014. (Photo by Constance Mier.)

Smallwood Store is an exceptional slice of Florida history at an end-of-the-road site overlooking Chokoloskee Bay near Everglades City.

You’ll have to travel many miles to find a more evocative, authentic look at old Florida.

Mallory Smallwood McMillin at Smallwood Store in Chokoloskee

All in the family: Mallory Smallwood McMillin with a mannequin of her great-grandfather Ted Smallwood at Smallwood Store in Chokoloskee

Smallwood Store opened in 1906 when Chokoloskee was the Wild West and Ted Smallwood was a pioneer. This wooden building on an island was an Indian trading post, post office and general store to a small community of hardy and sometimes ornery individualists.

Historic Smallwood Store at Chokoloskee Island

View of Smallwood Store as you enter the front door. The counter is called a “hooped skirt counter.” Its slant lets a woman stand next to the counter without her hoop skirt getting pushed up to expose her legs in back.

Today, one thing that makes Smallwood Store so special is that not only has it been preserved, but it is still owned and loved by descendents of the family that founded it.

Interior of Smallwood Store at Chokoloskee

Inside historic Smallwood Store.

Admission to Smallwood Store is $3 and if you like old stuff, you can while away an hour soaking up the ambience, reading the extensive and informative displays and admiring the view.

Back deck at Historic Smallwood Store

Back deck at historic Smallwood Store overlooking Chokoloskee Bay

You’ll learn that the wooden counters slanted in at the floor to accommodate hoop skirts, that in 1984 two-thirds of the adult male population of Everglades City was jailed for trafficking in marijuana, that the first Coke machine came to town in 1945 at Smallwood’s, which had the only electricity for 30 miles.

You’ll see rattlesnake skins, wooden barrels, a shot-gun worn out from shooting alligators and an antique gumball machine.

You’ll see the stories of Seminole Indians, pioneers, murderers, recluses and strong, persevering women. (On display is a handsome wooden table built by one of Ted Smallwood’s daughters.)

Smallwood Store devotes space to telling the legendary story of suspected serial killer Ed Watson, who sought refuge from the law in the Ten Thousand Islands. He was later killed himself at Smallwood’s Store by residents who suspected he was killing their neighbors.

Books on the Watson episode are availabled in a small gift shop, where you also can buy Seminole arts and crafts, postcards,  T-shirts and plastic alligators.

Smallwood Store, Chokolosee, near Everglades City

The day we visited Smallwood store, we were lucky enough to meet Mallory Smallwood McMillin, who grew up at the historic store. Her mother opened it as a museum when she was 3 and she remembers taking her naps in a back bedroom where her great-grandfather slept when he stayed at the store when Seminole Indians camped there. She graduated from Everglades City High School (in a class of 13) and returned after college to live here and work at Smallwood Store.

Smallwood Store was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1974 and remained open as a working store until 1982. When the doors shut, 90 percent of the original goods remained in the store, according to the family.

Today visitors from around the world come here for a peek at a non-commercial Florida.  Folks fish from the back desk and launch kayaks into the Ten Thousand Islands wilderness.

For the moment, what you see at Smallwood Store is a world Ted Smallwood would easily recognize.

Visiting Smallwood Store in Chokoloskee:

Things to do near Everglades City and Chokoloskee:

Interesting nearby places to stay and eat: 

Find a room in Everglades City:

Everglades City Hotels

 

3 Comments

  1. Pingback: Turner River kayak trail: The best in the Everglades | Florida Rambler

  2. Pingback: Ten Thousand Islands: Sandfly Island, ideal 'intro' kayak trail | Florida Rambler

  3. What a neat place.

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