Last updated on April 17th, 2025 at 09:38 am
You’ll find Old Florida at every turn in downtown Fort Pierce.
You cannot escape references to A.E. Backus and his influence on the cadre of famed landscape artists known collectively as The Highwaymen. There’s a museum and gallery here dedicated to their work.
A stroll down nearby 2nd Street shows signs of new life to old buildings, freshly scrubbed and painted, at the center of the city’s renewal efforts for Main Street Fort Pierce, boutiques, art galleries, antiques, new restaurants and a craft brewery.
The U.S. Navy has a colorful history in Fort Pierce as the World War II training ground for frogmen preparing to clear a path for the D-Day Invasion of Normandy. You can relive those glory years at the Navy SEAL Museum.
But the story that caught my attention was a curious historic marker on 2nd Street honoring St. Lucie County’s first sheriff, who was killed in a gunfight with the city marshal.
About that gunfight …
The encounter between Sheriff Daniel Stephen Carlton and city Marshal James Disney was not a chance encounter, and the two lawmen were not exactly pals.
Disney’s title of “marshal” is a bit misleading. He had no official government position, having been hired by a local business as a night watchman. These days, we’d call him a security guard.
Sheriff Carlton, on the other hand, had an official position, appointed to the office by St. Lucie County Commissioners and subsequently elected to the post by county voters.
On the night of the shootout, Carlton deliberately sought out Disney. The sheriff was angry about something.
“Residents were astounded when the peace of a Saturday night was shattered by a fusillade of pistol shots,” according to a 1987 recount of the gunfight in the Miami Herald. “As the shots ceased echoing through the streets, Sheriff Carlton, pierced by four bullets, lay dying on the board sidewalk, and Disney, bleeding from three wounds, was staggering into the sandy street.”
There are varying accounts on what exactly led to the shootout. An account by the Florida Historical Society suggests a longstanding feud, while another story pointed to a dispute Disney had with Carlton’s chief deputy over a card game.
The sheriff’s family believed Disney was hired by local bootlegging interests who wanted Sheriff Carlton ‘out of the way’ because he was ‘hurting business,’ according to Forgotten Heroes, Police Officers Killed in Early Florida 1840-1925, written by Dr. William Wilbanks.
Some suggested the sheriff himself was protecting bootleggers and was killed by Disney at the instigation of ‘reformers,’ according to Wilbanks.
Disney was convicted of manslaughter and sentenced to five years in prison.
Walking tour of downtown Fort Pierce
A.E. Backus Highwaymen Gallery
A beloved son of Fort Pierce, A.E. Backus was a renowned landscape artist who notably mentored The Highwaymen, a legendary group of African-Americans who sold their artwork along Martin County highways in the 1950s, ’60s and ’70s.
Backus, who was white, defied the norms in the 1950s when he invited talented young African-Americans into his studio to help them perfect their painting skills.
The museum features Backus’ work as well as works by those proteges, including popular Highwaymen artists Alfred Hair and Harold Newton.
I have a personal connection of sorts. Back in the 60s, my aunt purchased a painting from Harold Newton on U.S. 1, where he had set up his “gallery” on the side of the road. It’s been in our family for years, as have the stories of those talented Black artists who displayed their artwork along U.S. 1 for passing tourists.
Maps of “The Highwaymen Trail” are available, but the trail is not really walkable and the map is not very good. We drove it, and it wasn’t easy to follow. The highlight, if there is one, was Backus’ home at 122 A E Backus Ave.
The Backus House is now the headquarters for the Main Street Fort Pierce redevelopment agency and an art gallery.
Kayak the river that inspired many Highwaymen paintings. Read this story.
- A.E. Backus Museum, 500 N Indian River Dr, Fort Pierce. Phone: 772-465-0630. Summer hours: Sat 10 am-4 pm; Sun, 12-4 pm. Admission: $5
- Main Street Fort Pierce, 122 A. E. Backus Ave, Fort Pierce. Phone: 772-466-3880
Manatee Observation Center
The Manatee Observation and Education Center has an observation deck overlooking freshwater Moore’s Creek, once a power plant discharge waterway that spills into the Indian River.
Although the power plant is gone, Moore’s Creek is still a magnet for manatees throughout the year, but mostly in winter.
Inside the center, learn about the endangered Florida manatees through hands-on exhibits and informational displays.
Outside, you’ll find a two-story observation deck along the creek bank, a butterfly garden seeded with native Florida plants, and a replica of a natural spring, a common habitat for manatees in cooler winter months.
Manatee Observation and Education Center, 480 N Indian River Drive, Fort Pierce. Phone: 772-429-6266. Open Tuesday-Saturday, 10am-4pm. Closed Sunday and Monday. Admission: $3 per person. (Children 5 and under are free.)
Old Florida Coffee House, P.P. Cobb Building
A great stop for breakfast, brunch or lunch in Fort Pierce’s historic downtown, the Old Florida Coffee Company is located in the historic P.P. Cobb Building. (Open Mon-Sat, 7:30 am-5 pm)
Try the Old Florida Coffee Shop, the newest tenant in Fort Pierce’s oldest structure, the P.P. Cobb Building, built in the late 1800s as a trading post.
We checked it out on a recent visit and enjoyed the tastiest crepe ever, accompanied by a guava con crema Floridaccino. Quite a treat and unexpectedly good for a coffee shop.
For a more traditional breakfast, head north on Indian River Drive to the Captain’s Galley, which was recommended to us at the Fort Pierce Visitor Center, itself a historic landmark in downtown Fort Pierce, the 1905 Seven Gables House.
The 1905 Seven Gables House is a good place to start your walking tour of Fort Pierce’s historic downtown. The Visitor Center has flyers, maps, menus, Chamber swag and plenty of free parking.
Next door, visit the A.E. Backus Gallery and the Manatee Observation and Education Center, both of which are ideal starting points for your visit to Fort Pierce and your stroll through the historic district.
- Old Florida Coffee House, 100 Avenue A, Downtown Fort Pierce. Phone: 772-618-1771. Open Monday-Saturday, 7:30 am-5 pm. Closed Sunday
- Captain’s Galley, 825 Indian River Dr, Fort Pierce. Phone: (772) 466-8495. Open Tue-Sat, 7 am-2 pm; Sun, 7 am-12:30 pm. Closed Monday
- Seven Gables House, 482 N Indian River Dr, Fort Pierce. Phone: (772) 468-9152. Open Wed-Sat, 10 am-2:30 pm. Closed Sunday
Sailfish Brewery
Craft breweries traditionally incorporate local themes and ingredients in their craft beers, so it’s only natural for the Sailfish Brewery to locate in the heart of Fort Pierce’s Historic District, just a block from the city’s fishing center at the Fort Pierce Marina, where sail fishing is king.
Florida’s Treasure Coast, anchored by Fort Pierce and Stuart, is known as the Sailfish Capital of the World. In winter, the offshore waters here are teaming with sailfish.
Like craft brewpubs everywhere, the Sailfish Brewery casts itself as a neighborhood pub. Spacious and friendly, we found it to be a fine destination for beer with unique pizza options featuring hand-tossed, fresh dough. Other than a few appetizers, the food menu doesn’t go much beyond pizza, wings and salads.
On our visit, my wife and I sampled a couple of interesting brews, settling on the “Glazed and Infused” Imperial Stout, “treated with glazed Dixie Cream Donuts, vanilla and lactose.”
We went next door for a quick visit to the 2nd Street Bistro Tap House and Eatery, located in a historic 1929 building, but decided to dine instead at Casa Azteca Mexican Restaurant, a half-block away. The food and service at Casa Azteca was excellent.
- Sailfish Brewery, 130 North 2nd Street, Fort Pierce. Phone: 772-577-4382 Open: Mon-Thurs, 12-9 pm; Fri-Sat: 11am-11 pm; Sat, 11 am-12 pm; Sun, 12-7 pm.
- 2nd Street Bistro Tap House and Eatery, 122 N 2nd St, Fort Pierce. Phone: 772-293-9191.
- Casa Azteca Mexican Restaurant, 101 N. 2nd St., Fort Pierce. Phone: 772-302-3866. Open: 7 days, 11 am-9:30 pm
12A Buoy, an Old Florida fish house
On the northern edge of the historic district, below the South Causeway Bridge, may be the best restaurant in town, to which both visitors and locals attest on TripAdvisor. We agree.
Nothing fancy here except the food. 12A Buoy is distinctly an Old Florida fish house, serving fresh, locally caught seafood. You will be hard-pressed to find better. Anywhere.
Reservations are not accepted, and you will likely experience a wait to be seated, even in summer after the snowbirds go home. Your patience will be rewarded.
Once seated, we found the service attentive but not in your face. Kathy ordered the daily catch, which was a fresh and tasty swordfish with a tomato-cucumber-tequila sauce, and I had yellow-tail snapper, butterflied and seared, then roasted in a lime oil blend.
Both were served with colorful edible flowers to effect the presentation. The flowers were good, too! :-)
12A Buoy, 22 Fisherman’s Wharf at Indian River Drive, Fort Pierce. Phone: 772-672-4524. Open: Sun, Mon, Wed, Thurs, 11 am-9 pm; Sat-Sun, 11 am-10 pm. Closed Tuesdays. Reservations not accepted.
Things to do nearby
St. Lucie County Aquarium
You don’t get much more historic than the Smithsonian Institute, which has established a satellite research center on the South Causeway.
The research center itself is off-limits to the public, but their exhibits are on display at the St. Lucie County Aquarium, which is maintained by Smithsonian staff.
The aquarium’s large tank was originally in the Smithsonian’s Museum of Natural History in Washington D.C., where it was one of the first living reefs ever on display.
Although the aquarium is small, it’s educational. There’s a living reef exhibit and a variety of smaller tanks and exhibits to pique your curiosity and satisfy the urge to learn.
St. Lucie County Aquarium, 420 Seaway Drive, Fort Pierce. Phone: 772-462-FISH. Open: Tues-Fri, 10 am-4 pm; Sat-Sun, 12-4 pm. Admission is $4,
Heathcote Botanical Gardens, largest bonsai garden in U.S.
Heathcote Botanical Gardens is home to the largest public bonsai garden in the United States, the offspring of Bonsai Master James J. Smith, whose affinity for tropical species and native Florida trees is on full display. (Photo by Bob Rountree)
The bonsai garden occupies 10,000 square feet within the five-acre gardens, which also include an orchid house, rainforest, a Japanese garden, butterfly garden, herb garden, children’s garden and, tucked away in a far corner, a replica of a 200-year-old Florida Cracker House tucked into a field of native Florida vegetation.
Personally, I’m not a “garden guy”, but my wife Kathy was in her glory and quickly latched onto a caretaker who was resuscitating a bonsai tree near the rear of the exhibit. He walked her through his techniques for removing fungus from the roots, apparently a fairly common bonsai problem.
Each of the 100 bonsai trees displayed along a winding path in the garden had its own pedestal with signage explaining the species.
The location is south of Fort Pierce proper, just off U.S. 1, and conveniently for us on a direct route to our campsite in the Savannas Recreation Area.
Heathcote Botanical Gardens, 210 Savannah Road, Fort Pierce. Phone: 772-464-4672. Open Tues-Sat, 10 am-4 pm. Closed Sundays, May-October. Admission $8 for adults, $6 for seniors., $3 for children (under 6 free)
Savannas Recreation Area & Savannas Preserve State Park
I thought the Savannas Recreation Area would be ideal for kayaking because of the waterfront campsites. Not so much. You can kayak here, but not very far.
Leave the kayaks at home and bring bicycles. A paved trail extends north of the campground, taking you more than a mile into the serene savannah.
This county-run campground is adjacent to Savannas Preserve State Park, which does not have it own campground but does have more than 15 miles of multi-use trails for hiking and biking.
Both parks preserve these sweeping coastal wetlands from bulldozers as suburbia bursts around you.
Read about our camping trip in the Savanas Recreation Area.
- Savannas Recreation Area, 1400 E. Midway Road, Fort Pierce, Fl 34982. Phone: (772) 464-7855. Park is open sunrise to sunset. Entrance is free. Office hours: 8 am-5 pm daily. Call the office for campground reservations. Camping fees: Primitive, $5.38; Tent, $17.93; RV sites with hookups, $22.42,
- Savannas Preserve State Park, 2541 S.E .Walton Road, Port St. Lucie FL 34952. Ranger office: 772-398-2779. Hours: 8 am-sundown, 7 days. Entrance fee: $3 per vehicle. No camping.
Navy Seal Museum
Fort Pierce is the birthplace of early Navy frogmen and underwater demolition teams, who trained on these beaches before deployment to Europe and Pacific theaters during World War II.
Known then as “Scouts” and “Raiders”, these highly trained frogmen would eventually become a permanent part of elite U.S. Special Forces known as SEALS.
The history and equipment used by Navy SEALS and Underwater Demolition Teams are on display, including some fascinating underwater attack vehicles.
These early frogmen were initially deployed to seize and establish beachheads for invasions, a role soon expanded to include search and rescue, clear sea channels, erect markers for incoming assault crafts, then going ashore to clear beach obstacles for incoming forces.
These teams were not actually known as SEALs until 1962, when President John F. Kennedy recognized their value and commissioned them as Sea Air Land Teams, again expanding their mission beyond their traditional role.
During the Vietnam War, the SEALs were one of this country’s most effective combat forces, gaining an almost mythical reputation among the Viet Cong as the “Devils with Green Faces.” During the war in Afghanistan, they were deployed with special forces to rout terrorists from mountain hideouts.
Aside from the museum, evidence of their WW II training years can still be found off the beaches here, especially Pepper Park Beach behind the museum and at Avalon State Park, a few miles north.
The Navy trained frogmen at Avalon State Park for the D-Day invasion of Normandy, and you can still find underwater hazards of steel and concrete embedded below the surf.
Snorkelers and divers are drawn to shallow reefs less than 100 yards offshore, as well as remains of the wreckage of the Urca de Lima, a Spanish sailing ship destroyed in a 1715 hurricane in about 20 feet of water.
Pepper Park Beach features rest rooms, pavilions, picnic tables and grills to help make a day of your family’s visit to the museum.
Read this story! Watch your step: This beach was for Navy frogmen. Now it’s yours
- National Navy UDT-SEAL Museum, Phone: 772-595-5845. Hours: Tue – Sat, 10 am to 4 pm; Sun, 12-4 pm; Closed Mondays. Admission: $16 for adults, $8 for children 6-12; children under 5 and under are free.
- Pepper Park Beach, 3302 North SR A1A, Fort Pierce. Phone: 772-462-1522. Pavilion Rentals: 772-462-2110. No fees.
- Avalon State Park, State Road A1A North, Fort Pierce. Phone: 772-468-4007. Hours: 8 a.m. to Sunset. Fees: $2 per vehicle.
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