Last updated on July 5th, 2024 at 10:16 am
We would have loved kayaking the Chassahowitzka River, better known as the Chaz, if only one of these things were true:
- Within the first 10 minutes, we paddled over magical springs that sparkled like swimming pools (and, indeed, you can swim there.)
- On one of the Chaz’s tributaries, we spent 15 minutes watching a family of five or six otters scampering, swimming, fishing, diving and delighting us.
- We paddled up a tributary where the water got clearer and shallower as you reached a beautiful spring.
We didn’t care that we didn’t spot the manatees that frequent the Chassahowitzka or the bald eagles we were told to watch for. Let’s not be greedy: It is a splendid kayaking river for the scenery alone.
The Chaz is located a half hour south of the better known Crystal River. It’s about 100 miles west of Orlando in a rural, less-developed area of Florida that calls itself the Nature Coast. The Seminoles named it “pumpkin hanging place” after a type of climbing pumpkin that may be extinct, according to the Florida Wildlife Commission.
Important to note: To preserve special rivers like the Chaz, follow these best practices. Stay in the vessel. Avoid docking on riverbanks. Don’t trample vegetation or kick up silt. Avoid climbing on banks and walking on sand point bars. Don’t climb trees or use rope swings.
At the river’s origin, there’s a tiny community with a handful of houses and trailers. Within a few miles of paddling downstream, you enter the Chassahowitzka National Wildlife Refuge, a vast tangle of saltwater marshes and wild islands.
Whereas it was once a sleepy off-the-beaten-path destination, it has now become a popular boating destination, so weekends can get crowded.
Chassahowitzka National Wildlife Refuge pops into the news because it is the winter home of the whooping cranes that were re-introduced to the area by following an ultra-light from Wisconsin. (You are not likely to spot the cranes; their home is a remote island whose location is kept secret.)
Launching on the Chassahowitzka
The Chaz is an easy river to kayak. We put in your own canoe at a sandy launch site at the Chassahowitzka River Campground, where you also can rent kayaks and canoe at reasonable rates.
The water is so clear you see schools of fish as you paddle. As soon as we launched we started seeing herons, pelicans and osprey. (Eventually we saw hawks, kingfishers, cormorants, anhingas and a pair of wood ducks, too.)
Immediately to the right of the marina and within a five-minute paddle you come to the Seven Sister Spring. Many people miss this beautiful series of springs because they start paddling downriver.
As you’ll see on the map, there are several tributaries, some with springs, which are worth exploring. The first, Crab Creek Spring, leads to a lush lagoon with a spring and a single large home.
We kayaked up the Salt Creek, which was less scenic (dead trees and some sort of aquatic plant that covered the shore and rocks like a mat,) but this was the place where we happened on the otter family that will remain an enduring memory of this trip.
As you paddle downstream, the river widens and you pass fishing shacks, mansions, sunken boats and plenty of birds.
In about 2.5 miles (not counting all the tributaries to explore), you come to a sign marking the Chassahowitzka National Wildlife Refuge and from there on, the rest is open and unshaded. We turned around here, but if you skipped the side-trips (and I wouldn’t), you could continue paddling for miles. In another three or four miles, you reach the Gulf and, just before it, Dog Island, a recreation area with a restroom and dock.
Planning your kayak trip on the Chassahowitzka
The community around the Chaz is small, but there are more options for dining and lodging in Homosassa, 20 minutes away. For those who want to center their activities around the Chaz, here are a few options.
- You can rent kayaks or launch your own at the Chassahowitzka River Campground, 8600 W Miss Maggie Drive, Homosassa. Launching is free but there is a charge for parking.
- You also can rent kayaks from Seven Sisters Campground, 8544 W Miss Maggie Drive
Homosassa. - Camping at the Chassahowitzka River Campround is for both RVs with full hookups and a separate tent area.
- We stayed two blocks away at the Chassahowitzka Hotel, a historic building from the turn of the century now operated as a B&B by the fourth generation of the original family. Rates start at $125 per night. It’s a lovely spot that caters more to groups than individuals. (You can rent the whole place for $1200 per night and it sleeps 18.)
- The Chassahowtizka Hotel is connected to the Seven Sisters Campground, which has RV sites and cabins.
- Sorry to say, the Chaz is now a VERY popular destination, particularly on sunny weekends. So like other popular spots, your best experience will be to go early or on a weekday. This also means visitors are urged to avoid damaging the shorelines.
In Homosassa there are several choices for dining including the locals dive bar, the waterfront Freezer Tiki Bar, which steams delicious peel-and-eat fresh shrimp and serves cheap beer. The menu is limited, but the smoked mullet fish dip is worth the visit alone.
Old Homosassa, founded in 1835, has a delightful waterfront area. There are two adjacent moderately priced waterfront resorts: MacRae’s and Florida Cracker Riverside Resort. (The hotel is now part of the successful Florida Cracker Restaurant group, which started by serving outstanding traditional foods in a small restaurant in Brooksville.)
The Florida Cracker Riverside Resort is memorable for the small island off its bar that is home to a colony of monkeys. While we strolled the waterfront, watching the monkeys, a group of manatees swam by.
Things to do near Chassahowitzka River
- We combined kayaking the Chaz with a night in Brooksville and bicycling the truly great rail trail, the Withlacoochee State Trail.
- Near the river, there are many miles of hiking trails in the Withlacoochee State Forest.
- About 20 miles south is the Weeki Wachee, a gorgeous spring-fed river to kayak and home to the historic and fun underwater show performed by “mermaids” swimming in the spring.
- About 20 mile north is the Crystal River, the most popular place to see, kayak with and swim with manatees. Here’s our complete guide to kayaking in the Crystal River area and how to see Three Sisters Spring.
- Homosassa Springs Wildlife State Park is a manatee rehab center with viewing windows where you are guaranteed to see manatees. There are many other native animals on displays and programming that would especially appeal to families.
- Crystal River Archaeological State Park is a National Historic Landmark preserving ancient Indian mounds.
- Yulee Sugar Mill Ruins Historic State Park is a quick, interesting stop. The tumbling down stone walls of the sugar mill, part of a pre-Civil War plantation, are set under towering oaks. The mill’s owner is an important guy in Florida history — its first senator. The site is 15 minutes from Chassahowitzka on the way to Old Homosassa.
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Some things are better kept secret. I’ve been coming here since I was a teen and purposefully only ever told a few close friends about it, swearing them to secrecy. I never posted locations on my social media photos. But the word is out. I have noticed considerable degradation to Chaz over the past several. A big issue is too many people getting out of their vessels to walk on the banks and in the creeks. You can get to the Crack from the woods (make friends with a local and they’ll point you to the unmarked trail). Please do not paddle or wade in Baird Creek! This is so damaging to the sediment, hydrology, and aquatic life.
https://www.chronicleonline.com/news/local/water-management-district-launches-chassahowitzka-river-education-campaign/article_cb7d0f5e-d351-58e6-899b-c58d5d05a46d.html
https://www.swfwmd.state.fl.us/about/newsroom/news/district-reminds-visitors-help-protect-the-chassahowitzka-river-citrus-county
Yes, the Chaz is being over-loved, just like the Weeki Wachee, the Rainbow and the Ichetucknee, all of which have instituted daily limits on kayakers and, in some cases, barred leaving your kayak. It’s a Florida problem: Our growing population and increasing tourism are overwhelming our few remaining natural places. I hope education will help; restrictions on the Chaz are likely to be next.
I’m removing the Baird Creek info and I will beef up the education element in the story.
4.18.22 (2nd visit): stayed at the historic Chazzahowitzka Hotel, only 2 minutes from the boat launch. Fun accommodations.
One suggestion: check the tide chart, because the water level on Baird Creek can be very low at low tide and you’ll have to pull your kayak more often. Great trip!
It is now over crowded, parking has to be closed on the weekends and boats run on plane in the narrow channel so stay out of the middle.
Is this a good/safe place to paddle board?
Yes. I think it would be a good places for SUPS, particularly in the portion of the river closest to the springs.
Unable to pull up the map, the link may be broken.
Darn. Thanks for the update. When we paddled here, the marina gave us a copy of this useful map, which used to also be online at that link. I’ve added an alternate map from US Fish & Wildlife as a resource.)
A couple problems with your map.
You said you put in at Chassahowitzka River Campground but it isn’t on the map.
Also it say’s “You are here”, where is here? Is that the Chassahowitzka River Campground?
Aaron: You’re right. It’s not clear. On the map, “You are here” is the location of the Chassahowitzka River Campground. I’ve added a note to that effect to the post.
@Bonnie Gross, Thank you!
Hi! Thank you so much for this post and information!! My husband and I followed the details: we took our own kayak, parked at the campground launch ($5) and went down stream 1st to Baird Creek to the end and loved the paddle through that channel. The windey narrowing trail was great. We saw tons of birds and fish. The spring at the end was too clear to but still saw a TON of fish from the surface. We then went to Snapper Hole where large amounts of manatees surprised us there. Even came up to our kayak. Then headed back upstream the the 7 sisters spring holes. It was great and all thanks to your instructions and willingness to share your adventure with us. Thank you!
I paddled this on Friday and saw some interesting birds and a pair of dolphins swam by me! The Seven Sister Spring was beautiful. I want to go back when there are fewer people and explore more of the tributaries. Thank you for this article and map. It is very informative!
Thanks for the info, Holly. How lucky to paddle with dolphins.
Bonnie
Do you have kayaks for rent and how much are they so I can being exact change.
We do not own or represent the campground/marina there. We’re just writing about the location.
There are kayak and canoe rentals here: http://chassahowitzkaflorida.com/ You can call them with your questions. Enjoy!
Is this place open still for kayakers? We have our own we just need a place to go ?
Yes. I called the info number for the campground On April 20, 2020 (352-382-2200.) The recording says you can park and launch your kayak or boat. Bring exact change of $5 for parking and put it in the honor box.
Not sure about the “underwhelming” comment below, maybe they’ve been on some extremely exotic paddles. My son and I did this area one day last week. I highly recommend it. Rented yaks from the campground at 8 am, went up Seven Sisters springs and swam the caves, beautiful. Along the way saw numerous manatees. Then back downstream to Baird Creek and up to the crack, fabulous trip! Saw a couple otters on the way. Paddle to the crack is just amazing, and we never had to get out and walk. Birdwatching was amazing. A couple great blue herons, little blues, green winged night heron (which we saw repeatedly catching fish, all the turkey vultures you could ever ask for (100’s) and a couple birds I’m not familiar with. All you can get ridiculously close to. Thousands of fish swimming up and down the river just below the kayak in long lines. Paddled back up to the Seven Sisters springs again and saw an Anhinga I believe swimming back and forth under our boats and a log, incredibly fast and fun to watch. More of the same manatees again and a mother with calf, and a nice photogenic pelican. This is a pretty easy paddle in calm weather and is highly superior to the Dunnellon in my opinion.
David, I envy your experience: You saw SO much wildlife! It sounds awesome.