Last updated on December 17th, 2024 at 05:39 pm
Long a rustic, laid-back destination for anglers off the coast of Florida, Bimini’s popularity has grown into a destination for the every-tourist with its new luxury resort, transient cruise ships, luxurious oceanfront vacation homes and a casino.
Bimini now sees a steady stream of day trippers out of Fort Lauderdale, who spill out of a high-speed ferry for a beach day, a snorkeling excursion, charter fishing or a tram ride to a casino. A new ocean pier was built to handle ships too big for the islands’ cozy harbor.
Golf carts are the new Bimini. The every-tourist rents them at Resorts World near the new ocean pier.
That’s not the Bimini I remember. The Bimini I remember was funky, a pit stop on the way to productive fishing grounds nearby, or to the reefs and flats around neighboring islands.
There was the Compleat Angler Hotel where Ernest Hemingway once bellied up to the bar, and the End of the World Saloon, a notorious trough for the colorful congressman from Harlem, Adam Clayton Powell.
I remember those rustic bars in Alice Town, must stops for any angler processed through the old Customs House in the harbor.
Iconic sea planes still land in the harbor, though not as often. An airport on South Bimini now accommodates commercial airline flights. The fast ferry from Fort Lauderdale is the most affordable option.
The Baleària Caribbean Ferry 
departs Fort Lauderdale for Bimini three days a week — Sundays, Wednesdays and Fridays — arriving at 11 a.m. and returning at 7 p.m. The ferry visits Freeport on Grand Bahama Island on Tuesdays, Wednesdays (via Bimini) and Saturday. Fare information is lower in this article. You must produce a valid passport card or passport book before you board the ferry, and once again to Customs when you arrive at the pier.
Passport Required: A U.S. drivers license no longer allows entry to the Bahamas. A passport is required
The authentic Bimini is still there. You just have to look for it.
Bimini is a small cluster of islands on the western reach of the Bahamas archipelago, closest to South Florida. Only two of Bimini’s islands are occupied (population 2,417 as of 2022): North Bimini and South Bimini.
Rustic Alice Town and Bailey Town have long anchored North Bimini, at least until Resorts World opened on the largely undeveloped strip of sand north of Bailey Town a decade ago.
To find the real, authentic Bimini go to Alice Town, two miles south of Resorts World. Visitors can walk, rent a golf cart or hail one of a handful of taxis that serve the island. Cab fare is $5.
Alice Town is where I wanted to spend a few days.
Hemingway slept here
Ernest Hemingway lived on Bimini from 1935 to 1937, staying at the Compleat Angler Hotel, where he wrote To Have and Have Not, published in 1937, and planted to the seeds for many of his other novels, especially Islands in the Stream, which was published posthumously in 1970.
The Compleat Anger’s rustic bar was a gathering place for fishermen and locals, its walls replete with photos of Hemingway posing with his catch. I’ve had more than a few beers there myself.
Hemingway chose Bimini for big-game fishing aboard his boat, Pilar. He liked to fish. He fished a lot. When he wasn’t fishing off Bimini, he was fishing off the coasts of Cuba and Key West. An exact replica of Pilar is on display at World Wide Sportsman on Islamorada in the Florida Keys.
Next time you’re in the Florida Keys, visit World Wide Sportsman in Islamorada to see a full-size replica of Pilar on display in the showroom.
The attraction of Bimini for fishing remains to this day, drawing anglers from all over the world.
The Compleat Angler burned down in 2008, leaving a vacuum, but historic Alice Town and Bailey Town survive, a bulwark against the development that some say has cursed the island.
We stayed in a beach cottage
I’m not particularly fond of upscale resorts like the Hilton at Resorts World, nor would I consider myself the every-tourist who needs a swimming pool and casino. A no-frills beach is more my style.
My desire to stay in “real” Bimini accommodations could have easily been satisfied by booking a room at the popular Bimini Big Game Club, a relic of the 1930s and home of another notorious bar.
Instead, I looked on VRBO and found an unassuming little cottage in Alice Town, steps from the beach and two blocks from the empty lot where the Compleat Angler once stood.
Katt’s Kottages was exactly what we wanted. It doesn’t look like much, but the rooms were clean and comfortable and the hosts were friendly and accommodating.
Notably, the cottage was less than half the price we would have paid at at Resorts World.
The big attraction, though, was the beach. As natural and quiet as you could want. A real beach, calm and inviting. Wade and swim without an incoming tide of tourists.
Besides the one-bedroom cottage where we stayed, Katt’s also has two 2-bedroom apartments in their beachfront house with porches overlooking the ocean.
If you listen carefully, you can hear music wafting over from nearby Radio Beach, a gathering place for locals a short walk along the quiet beach road.
Radio Beach
Radio Beach is where the action is in Alice Town, during the day until sunset. This public beach is flush with character, reggae-rap rippling out of nearby beach bars, a gathering place for locals and adventurous visitors.
Beach chairs and umbrellas are available for rent by local entrepreneurs.
We particularly enjoyed CJ’s Deli, where we could sit out on the deck overlooking the beach with a clear view of the sunset, and CC’s, across the street, where we mixed with the locals, an informal social club for backgammon and beers.
After sunset, the action moves elsewhere, perhaps to soulful End of the World Saloon, which is open until 10 p.m., or Bimini Big Johns, open until 8 p.m. Both are down the block on Kings Highway, which really isn’t much of a highway.
Both are dive bars, Big John’s a little less so with outdoor dock seating not unlike those you will find in Florida. End of the World is more rustic, although the sandy floor has been replaced with tile, which does take a touch off the ambience of bygone years.
Here’s a fun story about End of the World: World’s Sleaziest Bar
Alice Town
Alice Town has long been the heartbeat of Bimini, or at least it was before Resorts World.
A makeshift stage has risen from the ashes of the Compleat Angler, where most nights you’ll find live music by locals for locals. We could hear it from our cottage, just a curious trickle of island music and laughter in the distance.
Around the corner from our cottage was the wildly colorful Dolphin House Museum, it’s exterior walls covered with salvaged tiles, dolphin murals and conch shells. The museum was built with recycled and salvaged materials by Bimini author, educator and historian Ashley Saunders and is open for tours. (Tours are $10).
There’s a “straw market” with straw hats, local artwork and T-shirts down on Kings Highway, catering mostly to golf-cart tourists and overnight guests at a handful of mom-and-pop lodgings nearby. It’s at the bottom of Parliament Lane, below Radio Beach.
We enjoyed our best meal in Bimini at the Anchorage Restaurant on the beach road (Queens Highway) and is part of the Bluewater Hotel and Marina, which fronts on Kings Highway.
The Anchorage is a non-descript, family-owned restaurant with windows opening out to the sea in the Bluewater’s historic wooden lodge. We discovered it while walking along the beach road and saw two couples eating inside. No signs, just an open gate, so we walked through.
The Anchorage doesn’t take reservations, and there’s no online menu. In fact, there’s no online presence at all. I chose a local fish dish, which was excellent, and my wife enjoyed a fried chicken dinner offered that evening. Outstanding. We paid our tab — cash only — at the bar.
The next day we walked along the beach to Bailey Town and picked up lunch at O Bimini Gal, a small takeout shack on Queen’s Highway we were told had the best hamburgers on the island. The burgers were out of this world. There was no seating, so we ate our lunch at a nearby church overlooking the ocean.
The ferry to Bimini
In past years, private boats and sea planes were the only transportation to Bimini. That all changed with development of Resorts World near the pier.
The Baleària Caribbean Ferry departs Fort Lauderdale (Port Everglades) to Bimini three days a week at 9 a.m., arriving in Bimini at 11 a.m., and returns at 8 p.m., arriving in Fort Lauderdale at 10 p.m.
Arrive two hours before departure, and you’ll need another hour to clear Customs each way.
Fare
The posted fare as of November 2024 was $155 round trip PLUS a $70 “issuing fee” per person, which is not explained up front or even viewable unless you click on the small tab at top right of the booking screen.
Premium seating is additional. An option is a $42 fee for use of Bimini Beach, which is managed by Resorts World. Total for a round-trip day excursion, including Bimini Beach, is $267 per person.
The fare is higher if you book your round trip over a period of days. In November 2023, we paid $300 round trip each, even though we were booking directly through Balearia.
Included in your fare is a handbag or backpack AND a small carry-on (up to 26 pounds), the same as allowed for an airplane carry-on. Anything larger costs more.
Book online
You can also fly a commercial airline to the airport on South Bimini. In operation since 2008, the airport is served by United Airlines and Silver Airways from Fort Lauderdale. Fares run $200 and up each way for the 45-minute flight.
You can still book a sea plane on Tropic Ocean Airways from Fort Lauderdale or Palm Beach International Airport. Fares run $300 and up in each direction. The seaplane lands in the harbor, reminiscent of iconic Chalks Airline that served Bimini for decades out of Miami.
Arrival at the pier
The ferry was filled with people who were just going to Bimini for the day. I thought it a bit much, given the fabulous beaches we have in South Florida. The ferry is not cheap for a day at the beach.
The presence of day-trippers was obvious. No luggage, perhaps a tote bag, and many were wearing swim trunks and bikinis, ready for the beach.
At the foot of the pier is a beach with cabanas, but a greater purpose may lie ahead on the tram to Resorts World and Fisherman’s Village, a modest shopping mall replete with tour booths ready to take you for a day of snorkeling, fishing or diving.
Taxis are available for hire at Fisherman’s Village, as are golf-cart rentals, if you wish to explore.
Day trippers in the know will disperse to Bailey Town and Alice Town, avoid the higher prices for golf carts at Fisherman’s Village, and choose a local concession.
Golf Cart and Bicycle Rentals
- Sluggo & Rene’s Golf Cart Rentals. 242-473-5121
- Barry’s Golf Cart Rentals. 242-825-4651
- BMB Golf Cart Rentals. 242-473-3155
- Elite Golf Cart Rentals. 242-473-8125
Eclipse Bicycle Rentals and Tours will rent you a beach cruiser bicycle for $25 per day. Eclipse also offer land and sea tours of the islands, including a beach tour. You can book online at eclipserentalsbimini.com, or you can also call or Whatsapp to 242-808-1450.
Whatsapp is a thing on Bimini. We found almost everybody uses it to communicate.
Snorkel/dive trips, tours & fishing guides
Bimini Blue Adventures offers diving, snorkeling, shark snorkeling, sting ray petting, sunset cruises and group fishing trips aboard party boats. You can rent kayaks and paddleboards, or take a guided kayak tour on the island’s pristine waters. (Phone: 242-827-7772)
Neal Watson’s Bimini Scuba Center is based at the Bimini Big Game Club in Alice Town and offers a variety of tours and dive trips, including dolphin swims, shark dives and snorkeling, and dives near shipwrecks.
Fishing guides:
- Captain Matt Stuart — Offshore and deep sea fishing on a 28-foot Grady White. Also Snorkel and dive tours. Call 242-464-5729.
- Bonefish Freddy Rolle — Bonefishing and fly fishing. 242-473-0580
- Small’s Bonefishing and Boat Tours — You define your trip. 242-347-4032
Historic Walking Tour:
Historian and educator Ashley Sanders of the Dolphin House Museum offers a cultural and historical walking tour. Call 242-473-2394.
FAQ
How much does it cost for the Bimini ferry?
The posted base fare to Bimini from Fort Lauderdale starts at $180 round trip, according to the ferry’s web site, but you’ll pay more when you add service fees and taxes, as much as $75 round trip per person.
We paid a total of $300 each round trip, and that was the off-season with a discount. The rates vary. When I tested the reservation system on different days for a trip in February 2024, the base fare varied between $180-$250 round trip per person, not including $75 in fees and taxes. Premium seats are $30 more each way. You can see current pricing and book the ferry here: Baleària Caribbean Homepage
Is luggage included in the fare?
Yes, but you are limited to carry-ons. Included in your fare is a handbag or backpack AND a small carry-on (up to 26 pounds) per person, the same as allowed for an airplane carry-on.
Your standard carry-on suitcase must weigh less than 26 lbs is free. There’s an additional charge for bags over 26 lbs.
Do I need a passport?
Yes, and it’s checked by Customs at both ends of your trip. A U.S. passport card is a good way to go. It’s valid in the Bahamas and less-expensive version of a passport book ($30 vs $130), although the same screening process is involved.
Passport cards are only valid for land or seaport entry to Canada, Mexico and the Bahamas. For international air travel, the traditional passport book is required.
Is the U.S. dollar accepted in Bimini?
Legal tender in Bimini is the Bahamian dollar, but the U.S. dollar is accepted everywhere. Just make sure you get your change in U.S. currency. Credit cards are accepted at many restaurants, but not all. Bring cash. There are ATMs on the island, but service fees are steep.
How long is a day trip?
You will have only about 7-8 hours on Bimini — another 9 hours in transit — when you take the ferry.
Although the ferry ride is just two hours, you need to arrive at Port Everglades two hours before departure, and one hour in advance for the return trip. It takes up to an hour to clear Customs in each direction.
My recommendation is book accommodations on the island for a few days, as we did, so you have time to explore.
How small is Bimini?
The main island, North Bimini, is only seven miles long and the resident population (2,471 as of 2022) is concentrated in a 2.5-mile strip on the south end of the island, below Resorts World. South Bimini is a larger island but less populated.
If it’s so small, are there cars on Bimini?
Yes, there are a few cars and small pickup trucks, most serving as taxis and vehicles to transport goods or people to and from the docks. Bicycles, boats and golf carts are the main forms of transportation for both residents and visitors.
Where do you pick up a taxi when you get off the ferry?
You must take the free tram from the pier to Fisherman’s Village at Resorts World, where taxis are waiting. Cost is about $5 per person to go anywhere on the island.
How do you get to South Bimini Island?
Take a taxi to the inter-island ferry in Alice Town. It’s a small pontoon boat, departing every half-hour for South Bimini.
Is there camping on Bimini?
Boat camping is OK in the Bimini Islands, but camping on public lands or beaches anywhere in the Bahamas is generally prohibited for tourists. (Locals do it legally.) The Bahamian government wants you to patronize hotels. Camping is OK on private islands, but you need the owner’s permission.
If you are boat camping, find a slip with hookups or anchorage in a sheltered harbor. But first, you must clear customs on the docks at the Seaplane Base at Resorts World. You know the drill: Fly a yellow quarantine flag upon entering the harbor, and nobody except the captain gets off the boat until you clear Customs.
If you are taking the ferry, there are no legal camping options.
Historical Bimini tidbits…
- In 1917, Chalk Airlines launched seaplane service from Miami to Bimini, bringing supplies and visitors from Florida to the islands. The airline continued service until 2007, when it ceased operations. Today, Tropic Ocean Airways offers private seaplane charters to the island from Fort Lauderdale and Palm Beach International Airport.
- In 1987, Colorado Senator Gary Hart’s presidential bid was derailed after media reports exposed a relationship with model Donna Rice. A photo of Rice sitting on Hart’s lap on a dock in Bimini was first published by the National Enquirer.
- In 2008 conservationist Jean-Michel Cousteau called Bimini Bay Resort a catastrophe, “allowing Bimini Bay to continue … would certainly strip this island paradise of its precious natural riches.”
Source: Wikipedia
Explore Bimini on Tripadvisor
Related Books by Ernest Hemingway available on Amazon
To Have and Have Not was written by Ernest Hemingway while he was living on Bimini at the Compleat Angler.
- Ernest Hemingway (Author)
- Scribner (Publisher)
Islands in the Stream, published posthumously in 1970, reflect Heminway’s experiences on Bimini, as well as his service as a submarine spotter off the coast of Cuba in World War II aboard his fishing boat, Pilar.
- Hemingway, Ernest (Author)
- English (Publication Language)
Should you purchase a book through these links, we may receive a small commission. Our earnings from these purchases help support publication of this web site.
