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Loop Road: Storied road through Everglades is full of wildlife

Last updated on January 21st, 2021 at 08:52 am

Old car Pinecrest Loop Road in Everglades

Pinecrest was a boom town on Loop Road in the ’20s, with bars, brothels and bootleggers. The nearest legal authority was in Key West. Today there are just a few signs of its heyday, including this ’54 Dodge.(Photo: Bonnie Gross)

If even half the stories about Loop Road are true, it was the swamp version of the Wild West well into the 1950s and ‘60s.

Old Pinecrest gas station on Loop Road

The old Pinecrest gas station is one of the relics on Loop Road. No trespassing! There are still residents here.(Photo: Bonnie Gross)

Loop Road is a 24-mile-long two-lane road that parallels Tamiami Trail through the Everglades in the belly of South Florida’s undeveloped center.

The eastern seven miles are paved and after that, it’s gravel or dirt. In the summer, parts of the road can be under water.

All year, the place teems with wildlife – alligators, birds, otters, deer, even the rarely seen Florida panther. It’s part of the Big Cypress National Wildlife Refuge.

For years, people who wanted to get away from civilization lived here:  hunters and fishermen, of course, but also folks who didn’t want to be found for reasons not always innocent. There was a wild bar called the Gator Hook, immortalized in this great reminiscence by Florida writer Jeff Klinkenberg.  (His piece is worth reading.)

This gator sauntered across Loop Road as we unloaded our bikes one April day.

This gator sauntered across Loop Road as we unloaded our bikes one April day. (Photo: Bonnie Gross)

Today, the people along Loop Road are tamer. But the animals, thankfully, are just as wild.

Those traveling across Florida on the Tamiami Trail should take Loop Road only if they aren’t in a hurry.  Once on gravel, your speed will be under 20 miles per hour. Like the rest of the Everglades, the scenery here doesn’t shout.  Appreciating the cypress forest and pine uplands requires quiet attention to the beauty of small things.

This Loop Road guide from the Big Cypress National Wildlife Reserve provides useful mile-by-mile information, history and background.  It’s a PDF; I’d recommend you print it out before you hit the road.

Florida Trail at Loop Road in Big Cypress

The Florida Trail, which stretches through the state, starts at Loop Road. The trail over exposed limestone is one of the quietest places you’ll find. (Photo: Bonnie Gross)

If you want to use Loop Road as a way to get out and explore Big Cypress, there are three good opportunities to take a hike:

  • Across from the Loop Road Education Center about seven miles west of the eastern entrance to Loop Road is the short Tree Snail Hammock Trail. It’s only a third of a mile long and it’s a jungly bramble. Hunting for the pretty tree snails on the trail makes it a bit of a treasure hunt.
  • A far longer trail is about at the mid-way point. Here is the southern terminus of the Florida Trail, which extends all the way up the state. You don’t have to hike for hours, however, to enjoy it. In the winter, this is an easy and lovely trail through cypress forest decorated with airplants. The surface is a craggy exposed limestone and it is a very still and silent place. On an April hike, the trail was lined with wildflowers. During the rainy season, this path will be ankle- or knee-deep underwater. (Note: The roadsign was missing when we visited, so you might miss the trailhead. It’s across the road and near the well-marked parking lot and access point for off-road vehicles.)
  • The third good place to hike is the Gator Hook Slough Trail. This trail is two miles east of the western entrance to Loop Road. In winter, the trail starts dry and then becomes a swamp slog through ankle-deep water. It begins in a pretty dwarf cypress forest and opens up to a prairie with cypress domes visible along the horizon. There are restrooms and picnic tables at the trailhead. Here famed wildlife photographer Clyde Butcher recounts going off-trail and getting lost on the Gator Hook Trail.
Loop Road in the Everglades: Birds and gators are easy to spot in winter. (Photo: Bonnie Gross)

Loop Road in the Everglades: Birds and gators are easy to spot in winter. (Photo: Bonnie Gross)

As you drive, you’ll find many openings in the forest at culverts and bridges where it’s worth stopping, looking into the water and listening. One of the prettiest spots you’ll find in the Everglades is Sweetwater Strand, where deeper water and large cypress trees create a setting photographers find irresistible. Here are some pictures by a photographer who tromped into Sweetwater Strand in hip waders.

Bromeliad on Loop Road in Big Cypress in Florida Everglades

Bromeliad blooms along trail on Loop Road. (Photo: Bonnie Gross)

Most people also snap a few photos at Pinecrest. A few houses, rusting antique gas pumps and a disintegrating ‘54 Dodge are the main elements of this ghost town, once home to 400 people. It’s an evocative scene, located so far off the main road.

Nearby is the home of one of Loop Road’s current characters, Lucky Cole, who specializes in what you’d have to call outdoor boudoir photography. Look for his red mailbox on the north side of the road.

And there are the alligators. Sometimes they’re in the road or crossing the road. Often, if you walk on Loop Road, you’ll hear loud splashes as they hear your approach. While on a bike ride down Loop Road one spring day, I wrote in my notebook: “There are so many gators, making mention of them would be like pointing out clouds in a Florida sky. Oh look: there’s another one.”

Motorcyclists on Loop Road

Loop Road is a fun ride for motorcyclists and off-road bicyclists. (Photo: Bonnie Gross)

Planning your drive on Loop Road:

Loop Road guide from the Big Cypress National Wildlife Reserve

Florida Rambler’s guide to Tamiami Trail through the Everglades

Camping along Loop road

Campsite at Mitchell's Landing along Loop Road in Big Cypress

Campsite at Mitchell’s Landing along Loop Road in Big Cypress National Wildlife Refuge. (Photo: Bonnie Gross)

There are two campgrounds along Loop Road: Pinecrest and Mitchell’s Landing. They offer primitive camping with primitive toilets, but you must bring your own water.  

Mitchell’s Landing (the more attractive of the two) does fill up on warm winter weekends. It costs $24 a night and is open to RVs.

Pinecrest is reserved for group camping only and the group sites are $30 a night.

The campgrounds are located along the paved section on the eastern section of Loop Road.

Here’s information on camping. 

Fish in the water along Loop Road

Gaze into the water along Loop Road and you’ll see it is teeming with enough little fish to keep flocks of birds happy. (Photo: Bonnie Gross)

Links to help you explore area around Loop Road in Big Cypress National Wildlife Refuge:

Visiting nearby Everglades City and Chokoloskee:  


A note from the editor:

The information in this article was accurate when published but can change without notice. Please confirm details when planning your trip by following the links in this article.

This article is the property of and is protected by U.S. Copyright Law. Re-publication without written permission is against the law.

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Melody rider

Thursday 13th of February 2020

No mention here of the fabulous music scene back in the late 60s and early mom and dad played music out there then... Ervin rouse was a regular and he wrote the orange blossom special... lots of famous musicians hung out there to just play and not be bothered... it was a magical time to a 4 or 5 year old little girl!!! Music everywhere!

Bob Rountree

Saturday 15th of February 2020

In the late 70s, i recall going to a few bluegrass festivals out there.

Florida Everglades 2019 Trip Report | daveblinder

Monday 18th of March 2019

[…] From Florida City we drove up Krome Ave to the Tamiami Trail to reach Big Cypress. This drive can be scenic and good for wildlife spotting along the way. There are several car pull-offs along the Tamiami canal where fishermen park. Our first stop in Big Cypress however was the not to be missed Loop Road. […]

Sandy Mendez

Friday 26th of January 2018

one further comment re the the 60s and 70s everybody would set up camp along the road and got along just fine. i was born a rural kid in the backwoods of carolina so miami was a big city to me when we move down.neighbors in the gables were bear hunters with a hound pack. wow. like being home again. i hunt all over the planet but those first 2 wks of zone a turkey season are pricelees. always like visiting lucky cole when im out there. hikers please remember we may be turkey hunting in that swamp between early march and early april.

Sandy Mendez

Friday 26th of January 2018

hunted the loop as a boy from early to late 70s. took a decent buck or two and one particularly good osceola turkey. about 15yrs ago started turkey hunting the first two wknds of the season along the trails off the loop. no other hunters and quiet. sun sentinel did a story about one of my hunts. have had some success. remember during season deer hunting and turkey hunting is legal along the loop.

Carl Benjamin

Monday 13th of November 2017

Many years ago, I was "plinking"with a borrowed .22 rifle on Loop Road. Game Warden decided that was a no-no,cited me for " shooting from a public road", confiscated my rifle. Well, a week or so later,I had to journey to Everglades City, pay a $75.00 fine to get the rifle back. Lesson learned,I guess.

Bob Rountree

Tuesday 14th of November 2017

The Loop Road area is popular with swamp hikers, so I can see why plinking would be discouraged. Swamp hikers stay quiet to observe wildlife, and you might not ever know somebody is in the grass unless they were hit by a stray bullet. There are also obscure slices of private property in that area where people still live. You can bet they are armed with more than .22's, and they might take your target practice seriously. The area was once known for its wild west culture, remnants of which remain today. For an appreciation of that culture, read some of Peter Matthiessen's books. The game warden was doing you a favor! :-)

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